The different types of textured hair: characteristics and needs

Textured hair refers to any hair type that is not naturally straight, i.e., wavy, curly, coily, or kinky hair. It is a term derived from the English "textured hair" and encompasses a variety of curl shapes: from light waves to very tight curls. Its main characteristics are volume, a structure of waves or spirals, and a lack of natural hydration (natural sebum has difficulty reaching the ends).

According to the Andre Walker classification, a renowned American hairstylist who developed the "Andre Walker Hair Typing System," so-called textured hair comes in 3 types: wavy (2A, 2B, 2C), curly to coily (3A, 3B, 3C), and coily to kinky (4A, 4B, 4C).

Textured hair requires special attention in terms of hydration and nutrition. We talk about hair porosity, which refers to the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. Textured hair has higher porosity than straight hair. As a result, it absorbs and retains hydration and care active ingredients less effectively. It therefore requires richer and deeply nourishing formulas to remain supple, shiny, and protected. In this article, we will help you understand your hair type and the reason for its fragility in order to better grasp the needs of so-called textured hair. Also discover our hair care products for curly, coily, and kinky hair for babies and children.

What are the different types of textured hair?

Type 1 is straight hair

• Type 2 "Wavy hair" is not completely straight nor frankly curly; the waves are more or less tight, and the fiber forms light "S" shaped waves, which are more or less pronounced depending on the sub-types (2A, 2B, 2C). Its appearance is finer than tight curls but less flat than straight hair.

Wavy hair generally appears flat at the roots and more voluminous along the lengths.

The unique feature of wavy hair (type 2) lies in its difficulty in maintaining a well-defined shape. Highly reactive to the weight of products, it flattens and loses its waves if overloaded with overly rich creams or oils. With an adapted routine, however, it reveals its full potential: soft, defined waves that last for several days. For this texture, the ideal approach remains light hydration and fluid styling products.

• Type 3 "Curly hair" has more pronounced spirals and is often characterized by a mix of textures (curls and waves) with a texture ranging from 3A (large, soft curls) to 3C (tight, voluminous curls).

Type 3 curly hair is undoubtedly the most representative when thinking of curls. It is characterized by well-defined spirals, ranging from large springs to tighter curls. Voluminous and expressive, it nevertheless has a natural tendency to dry out, especially along the lengths.

This hair type requires a perfect balance: enough hydration to prevent frizz, but also enough structure to maintain the shape of the curls. When pampered with gentleness and regularity, it reveals all its beauty: radiance, bounce, and elasticity. Conversely, without suitable care, it quickly becomes dry, dull, and fragile.

• Type 3/4 "Coily hair" sits between curly (type 3) and kinky hair (type 4). It takes the form of a fairly tight spring that curls back on itself and forms very tight spirals, sometimes the size of a pencil, which give the hair dense volume and a rich texture. Less compact than kinky hair, it retains a certain suppleness and is often easier to detangle.

However, the sebum from the scalp has difficulty flowing along the hair fiber, thus making it drier and more brittle. But good products adapted to this texture allow for healthy, bouncy coily hair.

• Type 4 "Kinky hair" is the tightest hair type in the texture classification because it does not form clear curls, but rather extremely small and compact spirals, sometimes almost invisible, or zigzag patterns.

Due to its compact structure, sebum has difficulty sliding to the ends, which makes it naturally dry, fragile, and prone to breakage. It therefore requires rich care, deep hydration, and particularly gentle handling.

When well cared for, kinky hair reveals all its beauty: suppleness, shine, and incredible versatility. It allows for a wide variety of protective styles (afros, twist-outs, braid-outs, etc.) and offers unique volume. Demanding, it requires attention, but it amply rewards the care provided to it.

It is important to remember that these classifications remain general. Many people actually have so-called "multi-textured" hair. This means they possess several types of curls within the same head of hair, blending different shapes and texture sub-categories.

A real lack of knowledge about textured hair

We consider that 6 to 7 out of 10 people in the world have textured hair, and yet it is poorly known and often misunderstood. For a long time, beauty standards have valued straight hair, relegating textured hair to the background.

Few offers for textured hair in a rapidly evolving market: a contradiction.

Textured hair is not a problem to be solved: it simply has different needs (hydration, nutrition, softness, and protection).

Hairstylists are not trained to treat and style textured hair; this hair type is not part of the standard hairdressing curriculum. At the same time, specialized or ethnic salons are not always competent because they do not necessarily have the technique, but rather just the experience and cultural background.

Several myths are relayed concerning textured hair, such as: textured hair does not grow enough, it falls out more than others, or it requires too many products...

In reality, it is not a growth problem, but a matter of length retention, known as shrinkage (the hair shortening as it dries). As for hair loss, it does not only concern textured hair but is rather a natural phenomenon that affects all hair for several reasons (hormonal, hairstyles that are too tight, stress...). Regarding the products to use, it is not a question of quantity but rather of products adapted to one's hair type and a balanced routine (hydration, protection, stimulation) to promote growth, limit breakage, and protect the hair fiber.

Finally, it is important to understand that a person's geographical or ethnic origin has no direct link to the nature of their hair. Therefore, we do not talk about "mixed-race hair." For example, type 3 hair can be found equally in a Brazilian, a Caribbean, a North African, or anyone else, regardless of their heritage. Hair texture is independent of origins and is not defined by a geographical term.

Why is textured hair so fragile?

Textured hair is naturally dry and dehydrated

The spiral or zigzag shape of textured hair gives it a magnificent appearance but influences its fragility. Indeed, these curves in the hair hinder the circulation of sebum produced by the scalp along the fiber, so the hair ends up dry, especially at the tips.

Also, the cuticle (the outer layer of the hair) is often less smooth and more porous, which allows hydration to escape faster and makes the fiber sensitive to external factors (heat, pollution, unsuitable products).

Textured hair has a more natural tendency to break

The coils of textured hair create points of fragility all along the strand, which can break more easily during brushing or styling.

Beyond its role in the formation of curly and kinky hair, keratin is distributed specifically in the hair cortex, mainly around the external ellipse. This particular arrangement influences both the appearance of the hair and its fragility. Indeed, the center of the fiber contains less keratin, which makes it more vulnerable and prone to breakage.

Textured hair can easily be damaged by the effect of daily hairstyles, repeated braids, or even simple friction during sleep. Mechanical manipulations like brushing or detangling also exert pressure on the fiber, which promotes breakage.

Textured hair is more prone to frizz

Textured hair is naturally more prone to frizz than straight hair. Frizz appears when the hair cuticles lift, giving the hair a puffed-up and unruly look.

Due to its higher porosity, this hair easily allows humidity from the air to penetrate. When the cuticle—the outer layer of the hair—is raised, the fiber absorbs ambient moisture, which causes swelling, deformation of the curls, and that often-dreaded "frizzy" effect.

So what are the needs of textured hair?

The foundation of care for textured hair is therefore hydration and nutrition.

Hydration restores elasticity and suppleness to the hair. Well-hydrated fiber becomes softer and resists frizz better. Prioritize regular moisturizing treatments that can coat the hair fiber (floral waters, hair milks, sprays).

Nutrition provides tone to the hair, thus the hair fiber is strengthened and breakage is limited. Prioritize fatty substances (oils, vegetable butters...).

Given its fragility, textured hair requires reinforced protection. The most suitable active ingredients are keratin, collagen, creatine, as well as certain vegetable oils, which contribute to strengthening and preserving the hair fiber.

Protection also comes through daily actions like using satin pillowcases to avoid friction or wearing protective hairstyles.

The choice of styling product is also essential for textured hair, which needs the right product to define beautiful curls or waves.

Wavy (type 2): very light products (foams, fluid milks, detangling sprays) so as not to weigh down the waves.

Curly (type 3): creams or styling milks, light gels to define curls without hardening them.

Coily & kinky (type 3C/4): butters, rich creams, moisturizing styling gels or waxes to maintain definition and limit breakage.

Since textured hair is naturally drier and more fragile, certain ingredients present in classic hair products can aggravate its fragility.

·      Sulfates are foaming and cleansing agents that remove not only impurities but also protective natural oils. This ingredient dries out the hair, making it rough and brittle.

   Drying alcohols accentuate dehydration and frizz because they evaporate quickly and remove moisture from the fiber (not to be confused with fatty alcohols like cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol which provide softness and emollience).

·       Heavy silicones used to give an immediate smooth and shiny look coat the fiber without nourishing it, prevent hydration from penetrating, and accumulate over time (leaving hair dull and suffocated).

Conclusion

Textured hair—whether wavy, curly, coily, or kinky—represents an incredible richness of shapes, volumes, and personalities. Each type has its specificities, but all share a common need: hydration, nutrition, protection, and softness.

Long misunderstood, this hair is not difficult to maintain: it simply requires a different approach, adapted to its natural structure. When well understood and correctly cared for, it reveals all its beauty: suppleness, shine, vitality, and unique versatility.

Identifying your hair type is an essential step to understanding its needs and establishing an adapted routine. For babies and children from 12 months, discover our hair routine for curly, coily, and kinky hair, combining Detangling Spray and Styling Milk. This is how you can reveal the full potential of your hair and obtain beautiful, vibrant curls.